Thursday, December 8, 2022

ITINERARY - UGANDA TO KENYA

 


OVERVIEW

This tour is designed to visit many of the great natural history locations in Kenya and Uganda. The sites visited are selected for their variety of wildlife and we should see an excellent variety of birds, and approximately 50 species of mammals, including such iconic species as Elephant, Giraffe, Hippopotamus, Zebra, Buffalo, Lion, Leopard, Cheetah, Mountain Gorilla and Chimpanzee – to name a few. We will also pause for other animal species such as reptiles, amphibians, and butterflies while we visit many of the region’s National Parks. In addition, as we travel through this varied and beautiful countryside we will, no doubt, encounter, and experience many of the unique human cultures of East Africa.

This will be an outstanding natural history safari that will show us much of East Africa’s scenery and biodiversity as well as providing many opportunities to learn and reflect about the region’s history and culture. Special notes - 3 full days in Masai Mara with ample time tracking the big cats. 2 full days each in Samburu Game Reserve and Murchison’s Fall National Park

 


 

THE REGION

Kenya –Kenya is often described as the best country in the world for nature and natural history experiences.  It has recorded over 1100 bird species and nearly 400 mammals.

Kenya is about 75% the size of New South Wales and has a population over 57 million. The climate varies from warm and humid along the coast and in the Lake Victoria basin, cool and humid in the central highlands and hot and dry in the north and east. The terrain has low plains rising to the central highlands bisected by the Great Rift Valley which runs the length of the country from Lake Turkana in the north to Lake Natron on the southern border with Tanzania. In the west, the land drops to the Nyanza plateau which surrounds the Kenyan sector of Lake Victoria. The land elevation is from sea level to the highest point Mount Kenya at 5,199 m, the second highest peak in Africa. Kenya’s vegetation is as diverse as its climate and topography would suggest and includes alpine moorland, grasslands, montane forests, coastal forest, thorn bushland and woodland, semi-desert, wetlands and mangrove swamps. The official languages are English and Kiswahili.

Uganda – Uganda, too, has over 1000 bird species recorded. The country’s rich biodiversity results from its variety of habitats and varied altitude ranging between the lowest point, Lake Albert at 621m and the highest point, Margherita Peak on Mount Stanley at 5,110 m. Uganda has two wet and dry seasons each year and the climate is modified considerably by the elevation above sea level. The south of the country has two rainfall peaks in April - May and October - November. This pattern however becomes less marked towards the North. The vegetation of Uganda includes Sudanian thicket grasslands, mountain and bamboo forests, heath and moorland on the mountains, lowland forest patches in the south-west and extensive wetlands in the Nile Valley and Lake Victoria basin. 

Basic Safari Route – Beginning in Entebbe and finishing in Nairobi.

 

 

ITINERARY IN BRIEF

 Day 1: Mon 18-Sep-23: Arrive Entebbe Uganda                                        O/n Central Inn

Day 2: Tue: 19-Sep-23: No Plan                                                                      O/n Central Inn

Day 3: Wed: 20-Sep-23: Entebbe- Mabamba Swamp - Lake Mburo National Park             

O/n Lake Mburo Safari Lodge

Day 4: Thu: 21-Sep-23: Lake Mburo National Park - Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Overnight at Bakiga Lodge/Gorilla Valley Lodge

Day 5: Fri: 22-Sep-23: Bwindi Impenetrable National Park           

Overnight at Bakiga Lodge/Gorilla Valley Lodge

Day 6: Sat: 23-Sep-23: Bwindi Impenetrable National Park - Queen Elizabeth National Park              

Overnight at Bush Lodge

Day 7: Sun: 24-Sep-23: Queen Elizabeth National Park  

Overnight at Bush Lodge

Day 8: Mon: 25-Sep-23: Queen Elizabeth National Park - Kibale Forest   

Overnight at Kibale Forest Camp

Day 9: Tue: 26-Sep-23: Kibale Forest      

Overnight at Kibale Forest Camp

Day 10: Wed: 27-Sep-23: Kibale Forest - Murchinson's Falls National Park           

Overnight at Fort Murchison Lodge

Day 11: Thu: 28-Sep-23: Murchinson's Falls National Park           

Overnight at Fort Murchison Lodge

Day 12: Fri: 29-Sep-23: Murchinson's Falls National Park             

Overnight at Fort Murchison Lodge

Day 13: Sat: 30-Sep-23: Murchinson's Falls National Park - Malaba         

Overnight at Greystone Hotel

Day 14: Sun: 01-Oct-23: Malaba - Masai Mara National Reserve

Overnight at Private Mobile Camp

Day 15: Mon: 02-Oct-23: Masai Mara National Reserve 

Overnight at Private Mobile Camp

Day 16: Tue: 03-Oct-23: Masai Mara National Reserve   

Overnight at Private Mobile Camp

Day 17: Wed: 04-Oct-23: Masai Mara National Reserve 

Overnight at Private Mobile Camp

Day 18: Thu: 05-Oct-23: Masai Mara National Reserve - Lake Naivasha 

Overnight at

Day 19: Fri: 06-Oct-23: Lake Naivasha    

Overnight at

Day 20: Sat: 07-Oct-23: Lake Naivasha - Lake Nakuru National Park        

Overnight at Lake Nakuru Lodge

Day 21: Sun: 08-Oct-23: Lake Nakuru National Park        

Overnight at Lake Nakuru Lodge

Day 22: Mon: 09-Oct-23: Lake Nakuru National Park - Naro Moru           

Overnight at Naro Moru River Lodge

Day 23: Tue: 10-Oct-23: Naro Moru- Mt Kenya National Park - Samburu National Reserve              

Overnight at Mobile Camp

Day 24: Wed: 11-Oct-23: Samburu National Reserve      

Overnight at Mobile Camp

Day 25: Thu: 12-Oct-23: Samburu National Reserve        

Overnight at Mobile Camp

Day 26: Fri: 13-Oct-23: Samburu National Reserve - Thika           

Overnight at a Thika Hotel

Day 27: Sat: 14-Oct-23: Naiobi National Park

Our Guides and drivers

Chege Kariuki – principal naturalist and guide.

Chege is interested almost in anything from a tiny jumping spider to the extra-large African Elephant, though his main passion lies in the fascinating world of birds in East Africa. Formerly a fulltime field ornithologist at the Department of Ornithology, National Museums of Kenya and his duties including bird banding/ringing, where he gained crucial knowledge and understanding of his native birdlife both in the hands and in the field.





Edson Miamba holds a diploma in Tourism Administration and a medal from Kenya Professional Safari Guide Association (KPSGA). He is passionate in all wildlife and especially birds and ends up spending most of his time at either the National Museums of Kenya (NMK) ornithology section maintaining the bird collection or doing bird research in the field as a ringer/bander.

 




ITINERARY IN DETAIL

Day 1 – Arrive Entebbe, Uganda

Welcome to Entebbe, our gateway to Uganda and East Africa.

** - Please note that meals for the first two days only are at participant’s expense.

O/n - Central Inn, Entebbe

Day 2 – Rest Day – no plan – Entebbe, Uganda

This day is set aside to recover from our long journey from Australia. After a lunch and a relax at our hotel we’ll have an optional visit to the Entebbe Botanical Gardens to see our first African wildlife. The gardens are located 3km away from our hotel – c 45 minute walk or a short taxi trip.

O/n - Central Inn, Entebbe

Day 3: Entebbe- Mabamba Swamp - Lake Mburo National Park


Today is a big day! We will leave Entebbe early for a big day!

Today we visit an IBA [Important Bird Area], Mabamba Swamp, which is an extensive marsh stretching through a long narrow bay, fringed with papyrus that has recorded over 260 species. The key species here is the enigmatic Shoebill Stork, one of the most wonderful and enigmatic birds of the world.

At the Mabamba Swamp we will bird at bird’s eye level, which in a swamp means in a canoe! As well as the Shoebill we’ll look for other bird species such as Swamp Flycatcher, African Purple Swamp Hen, African Water Rail, Common Moorhen, Lesser Jacana, African Jacana, White-faced Whistling Duck, Squacco Heron, Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Winding & Carruther’s Cisticola, Goliath Heron, and Black Crake.



Following our swamp excursions, we’ll drive to Lake Mburu National Park where we’ll enjoy a one -night stay. Lake Mburo National Park is a beautiful park with a good variety of habitats. It is dominated by tall grasses, acacia woodland and euphorbia trees while along the river there are dense thorn thickets. Here we will have our first African safari experiences, seeing Impala, Zebra and Vervet Monkeys as well as some great birds!

O/n - Lake Mburo Safari Lodge

Day 4: Lake Mburo National Park - Bwindi Impenetrable NP

After breakfast and some last birding in and around our camp we will have a game drive through Mburo NP begin our long drive to one of the greatest destinations of all of Africa, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.                                                         O/n - Bakiga Lodge/Gorilla Valley Lodge

Day 5: Bwindi Impenetrable NP

 This is going to be a memorable day! We’re here for the Mountain Gorillas!

Perhaps one of the most keenly anticipated African experiences for any naturalist is Gorilla Tracking and today is your opportunity to do just that! After breakfast, we shall assemble at the park offices for the pre-trek briefing. Gorilla tracking is a very captivating yet challenging activity. It might take an hour, it may take eight hours of walking through the wilderness to see these animals.

 Eight people are permitted per group per day so we will have to split up our group. On occasions the Gorillas prove elusive but often can be found within an hour or two by the tracker guides. Each encounter with the gorillas is different and has its own rewards, but you are likely to enjoy the close view of adults feeding, grooming and resting as the young gorillas frolic and swing from vines.

O/n - Bakiga Lodge/Gorilla Valley Lodge

 


 Day 6: Bwindi Impenetrable NP -Queen Elizabeth NP

After the morning birding around our Lodge we will travel north east towards the Queen Elizabeth National Park where we will stay for two nights at the aptly named Bush Lodge.

Queen Elizabeth National Park is one of the most diverse ecosystems in Africa. The melting glacier waters of the Rwenzori Mountains create a vast wetland system comprising of two main lakes; George and Edward, as well as the connecting Kazinga Channel. Thousands of Hippos populate these lake shorelines. Open savannah dotted with Acacia and Euphorbia trees provide habitat for elephants, lions, leopards, Uganda Kobs and big herds of buffaloes. Ten primate species including chimpanzees are present. Among the many other animals seen frequently are giant forest hog. This National Park boasts more bird species than any other park in Africa; 610 species! 


Famous tree climbing lions

 As we travel into the national park we go through the Ishasha section, an acacia studded savannah populated with Topi, Buffalo and Uganda Kob, where we have the possibility of seeing the famous tree-climbing lions that occasionally lounge on large fig trees.                                         O/n Bush Lodge

 


Day 7: Queen Elizabeth NP

We will have a game drive in the morning before an exciting boat cruise in the Kazinga Channel in the afternoon. The game drive will allow us more opportunities to see and photograph some of the area’s big game such as Lions, Elephants, Buffaloes, Uganda Kobs, Waterbucks, and other antelope species. Primates are also here and include Olive Baboons, Black-and-White Colobus Monkeys and Red-tailed Monkeys.

Birds possible here include Pink-backed Pelican, Great and Long-tailed Cormorant, Common Squacco Heron, African Open-billed Stork, White-faced Whistling and Knob-billed Ducks, Termnick’s Courser, Collared Prantincole African Fish Eagle, African Wattled Plovers, Shoebill, African Skimmer, Martial Eagle, Verreaux’sEagle Owl, Black Bee-eater, Black-rumped Buttonquail, White-tailed & Red-capped Larks, White-winged Warbler, Papyrus Gonolek, Papyrus & Brimstone Canary, Pin-tailed Whydah, African Morning Dove, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Swamp Flycatcher, Grey-capped Warbler, Black-headed Gonolek, Red-chested Sunbird, Slender-billed, Yellow-backed & Lesser Masked Weavers, Gabon and Slender-tailed Nightjars, to mention a very small sample.

The afternoon boat trip along the hippo crowded banks of Kazinga Channel gives visitors another unique wildlife experience. Excellent views of Hippos are assured as are great views of a variety of resident water birds. Two of the big five – Elephants and Buffalo are regularly seen at the waterside from the boats and occasionally other animals are seen drinking as well. Crocodiles, no doubt counting on other creatures coming to drink, are commonly seen.

The boat trip also provides another opportunity to record the Shoebill Stork. African Fish Eagles and African Skimmers are seen in and around the waterway as well.                                     O/n Bush Lodge

Day 8: Queen Elizabeth NP - Kibale Forest

Kibale National Park is an extensive national park, protecting a large block of rainforest that offers excellent flora and fauna. With lush tropical rain forest and fascinating diversity, it is one of the most beautiful and stunning forests in Uganda. It harbours the greatest variety and concentration of primates found anywhere in East Africa. It is a home to the largest number in Uganda to the endangered Chimpanzee as well as the Red Colobus monkey.                            O/n Kibale Forest Camp

Day 9: Kibale National Park

 This morning we have the opportunity for Chimpanzee trekking. And like the Gorilla trekking it is hard to predict exactly how long the search will take. The basic experience is a trek for 1 to 2 hours and then, upon finding the animals, tourists are allowed to stay for an hour in their presence. However, it will be a unique experience to see Homo sapien’s closest living relative in its natural habitat.

Bush walking and birding will be on the agenda for the afternoon aiming for such species as Grey-winged Robin, Yellow-spotted Barbet, Black-billed Turaco, White-naped Pigeon, Green-breasted & African Pitta, Red-chested Flufftail, Grey-throated Flycatcher, White-bellied Crested Flycatcher, Masked Apalis, Nahan Francolin, Tiny Sunbird, White-thighed Hornbill, Black Bee-eater, Yellow-spotted Nicator, Little Greenbul, Bar-tailed Trogon, Fine-banded Woodpecker, White-bellied Crested Flycatcher and Red-faced Crimson-wing.

Or you might like to avoid the heat and have an afternoon off to read and rest.

O/n Kibale Forest Camp



Day 10: Kibale National Park - Murchison's Falls National Park

After a very early breakfast we travel north east to the Murchison’s Fall National Park. The park has a reputation for an infamous part of African fauna; the Tsetse Fly - therefore a long-sleeved shirt and repellent will be essential!

Either today or tomorrow we will schedule a boat trip to see the actual falls. The boat cruise is an excellent opportunity for viewing the large resident populations of hippos and crocodiles, as well as other wildlife and extensive birdlife, including a wide range of waterbirds, and a huge colony of cliff-nesting red throated bee eaters, along the way.                                           O/n - Fort Murchison Lodge




Day 11 & 12: Murchison's Falls National Park

Murchison Falls National Park derives its name from the Murchison Falls where the mighty River Nile explodes through a narrow gorge and flows down to become a placid river whose banks are thronged with hippos, crocodiles, waterbuck, and buffalo. Wildlife includes Lions, Leopards, Elephants, Giraffes, Buffaloes, Hartebeest, Oribis, Uganda Kobs, Chimpanzees and many bird species including the rare shoebill.

The park has a variety of habitats; riverine, ironwood forests, savanna with Borassus Palm, Papyrus Swamps, lakes and rivers, dry and moist woodlands. Specialties here includes Shoebill, Secretary bird, Bat Hawk, Red-necked Falcon, Heuglin’s Francolin, Denham’s Bustard, Senegal Thick-knee, Egyptian Plover, Rock Pratincole, Black-headed Plover, African Skimmer, Four-banded Sandgrouse, Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Vinaceous Dove, White-crested Turaco, Pel’s Fishing Owl, Long-tailed & Pennant-winged Nightjars, Red-throated, Swallow-tailed & Northern Carmine Bee-eaters, Abyssinian Roller, Black Scimitarbill, Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Black-bellied Barbet, Black-faced Cisticola, Red-winged Grey
Warbler, Green-backed Eremomela, Yellow-billed & Emin’s Shrikes, White-breasted Cuckoo-shrike, Lesser Blue-eared & Bronze-tailed Starling, Northern-Red Bishop, Grey-headed, Olive-back and Red-winged Pytilia. O/n - Fort Murchison Lodge


Day 13: Murchison's Falls National Park – Malaba [Kenyan side of border]

Today we will leave early as have an [absurdly] long drive to our next nation, Kenya!

Our first night in Kenya will be in a small clean hotel in the border town of Malaba.

O/n Greystone Hotel


Day 14: Malaba - Masai Mara National Reserve

After breakfast we will leave for a long drive via Kisumu, on a branch of Lake Victoria, to the famous reserve - the Masai Mara, a plain of rolling grassland dotted with a mixture of acacia trees.

We'll ultimately stay on the western part of the reserve along the Olololoo Escarpments. Here is a variety of riverine, swamp, grassland and forested habitats.              O/n Private Mobile Camp

 


Day 15, 16 and 17: Masai Mara National Reserve



Today we drive – no walking I’m afraid – east across the Mara experiencing the area and its wildlife. We’ll find a host of bird species and maybe we’ll see the ‘Big Five’ [Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Buffalo and Rhino]. There are many smaller species of mammal from Hyraxes to Squirrels to Jackals to Hyenas that we could encounter as well.

The Masai Mara is an extension of the same ecosystem protected in northern Tanzania by the Serengeti National Park. In the Mara we will see the wildlife and the scenery that perhaps Africa is best known for. Elephants, Giraffes, Zebras, Warthogs, Topis, Hartebeests, Grants and Thompson’s Gazelles, Buffalo and Impala will be seen as well as some Wildebeest. Nile Crocodiles, a fair way from the Nile, will be seen in the area’s wetlands and rivers.

We will have three full days to explore this, the most famous of Kenya’s reserves. This time will maximise our chances for excellent opportunities to see and photograph the big cats - Lion, Leopard and Cheetah – and maybe some of the smaller cats like Serval and Caracal.

And there will be birds …. We will also make time to visit a Maasai village. See the Appendices of this itinerary.

O/n – Mobile Tented Camp


Day 18: Masai Mara National Reserve - Lake Naivasha

We will spend the morning birding in the park before heading for a Rift Valley Lake, Lake Naivasha. Here we will stay at the Lake Naivasha Country Club. Lake Naivasha Country Club became famous in the 1930's as a staging post for Imperial Airways' flying boat service from Durban to London. The Old Colonial architecture is solid and comfortable with accommodation in rooms and cottage set in 12 hectares of green lawns shaded by mature acacias and spreading fever trees.



Day 19: Lake Naivasha

Lake Naivasha is one of the two freshwater lakes along the rift valley and offers a superb birding site. The lake is fringed by papyrus and is circled by acacia woodland habitats. The gardens of our accommodation are rich with birds and the trees between the home and the lake are often visited by Black-and-White Colobus Monkeys. Care is needed in the early morning as Hippos venture from the lake [people have been killed by grazing hippo, especially if they are disturbed at night and / or you get between them and their lake!]

We’ll take boat ride along the papyrus shore of the Lake Naivasha hoping to see Little Grebe, Great White Pelican, Great & Long-tailed Cormorant, Great Egret, Purple & Goliath Heron, Hamerkop, Sacred & Hadada Ibis, Cape &Red-billed Teal, African Jacana, Pied Avocet, Black-winged Stilt and Three-banded & Long-toed Plover.

Day 20: Lake Naivasha - Lake Nakuru National Park

A relaxing morning before driving north to our lodge at Lake Nakuru National Park. O/n Lake Nakuru Lodge

 


Day 21: Lake Nakuru National Park

After breakfast we’ll drive to Lake Nakuru National Park to spend the day birding in the park. The alkaline habitat, acacia woodland, grassland, rivers and inlets with marshes holds residents as well as migratory species.

Flamingoes – greater and lesser – we should be able to see in this park. These birds used to be in great numbers but numbers have dropped to the mere hundreds.

                                     White Rhino and calf at Lake Nakuru National Park.

 Other birds may include Little Grebe, Great White Pelican, Black-winged Stilt, Gull-billed, Whiskered Tern, Grey-headed Gull, Cape, Red-billed Teal, Three-banded Plover, Little Stint, Long-crested, Tawny Eagle, Black-shouldered Kite, Augur Buzzard, White-fronted Bee-eater, Lilac-breasted Roller, Rock Martin, Arrow-Marked Babbler, Little Rock Thrush, Wailing, Rattling Cisticola, Rüppell’s Long-tailed Starling, Rüppell's Robin Chat, White-shouldered Cliff Chat, African Grey Flycatcher, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Common, Grey-backed Fiscal, Tropical Boubou, Black Cuckoo-shrike, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu among many others.

In addition, the park is rich in big game that includes giraffe, buffalo, waterbuck, eland, hippo, Black and White Rhino, lion, leopard and Spotted Hyena.



Day 22: Lake Nakuru National Park -  Naro Moru           

Today we drive out of the rift valley via the Subukia Escarpment and along the dormant Menengai Crater before visiting Thompson’s Falls.

O/n - Naro Moru River Lodge

Day 23:  Naro Moru- Mt Kenya National Park - Samburu National Reserve  

O/n Private Mobile Camp

Day 24 & 25 - Samburu National Reserve

 The Samburu National Reserve is a game reserve on the banks of the Ewaso Ng'iro river in Kenya. On the other side of the river is the Buffalo Springs National Reserve. The park is 165 km² in size and is situated 350 kilometers from Nairobi. It ranges in altitude from 800 to 1230 m above sea level. Geographically, it is located in Samburu County.



In the middle of the reserve, the Ewaso Ng'iro flows through doum palm groves and thick riverine forests. It provides water, without which the game in this arid region could not survive.

The Samburu National Reserve was one of the two areas in which conservationists George and Joy Adamson raised Elsa the Lioness, made famous in the best-selling book and award-winning movie Born Free.



There is a wide variety of animal and bird life seen at Samburu National Reserve. Several large game species common to Kenya's northern plains can be found in abundance here, including the following dry-country fauna: gerenuk, Grevy's zebra, oryx and reticulated giraffe. All three big cats, the lion,  cheetah, and African leopard can also be found here, as well as the elephant, Cape buffalo and hippopotamus.

Other mammals frequently seen in the park include olive baboon, warthogs, Grant's gazelle, Kirk's dik-dik, impala, and waterbuck. A black rhinoceros population has been re-introduced into the park after an absence of 25 years due to heavy poaching.



 There are over 350 species of bird. These include grey-headed kingfisher, sunbirds, bee-eaters, Marabou stork, tawny eagle, Verreaux's eagle, bateleur, vulturine guineafowl, yellow-necked spurfowl, lilac-breasted roller, secretary bird, superb starling, northern red-billed hornbill, yellow-billed hornbill, and various vultures including the palm-nut vulture.

The Ewaso Ng'iro river contains large numbers of Nile crocodile basks.

The area is home to the Samburu people, a Nilotic people of north-central Kenya. Samburu are semi-nomadic pastoralists who herd mainly cattle but also keep sheep, goats and camels. The name they use for themselves is Lokop or Loikop, a term which may have a variety of meanings which Samburu themselves do not agree on.



We will have two full days to safari in this area.                                  O/n Private Mobile Camp

Day 26: Samburu - Thika



We should have a leisurely morning at our camp before driving through the central highlands comprising of small-scale farms, large tracks of pineapple and coffee plantations enroute to the Thika – of the Flame Trees of Thika fame.                                                                O/n Thika Hotel.

Day 27: Nairobi National Park



Our last full day in East Africa and we finish with a final safari in Nairobi National Park. Nairobi National Park is a mini-Kenya, filled with a variety of antelope – Eland, Impala, Buffalo and Wildebeest. It is possible to record over 100 bird species within a day.

At the end of the day there is a drop off to the Airport or a hotel of your choosing adjacent.

Tour Ends.

All pictures by Ken Cross unless noted.